Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Seven Simple Tips... Caring for, Wearing and Collecting Vintage Jewelry

A long time ago, I had a job working in a Vintage Jewelry shop on Charles Street in Boston.Charles Street is located in Beacon Hill, one of Boston's most beautiful historic districts and as a college kid, I don't think I really understood how lucky I was to spend so much time in such a glorious part of the city. Charles Street is also home to many fabulous antique shops, about 40 squeezed into old buildings, pubs and inns.

I had the chance to work with an extremely eccentric gay man who owned the shop. Among the many odd stories he told me of his long life of cross dressing, drinking, collecting rhinestones and all sorts of art featuring naked men, the shop owner also shared with me many tricks of the trade, secrets of jewelry of the past, and his infectious love for all things old and shiny.

Although I had been surrounded by antiques as a kid, this job gave me a new perspective and a never ending source of knowledge about costume jewelry, vintage jewels, how to tell what is real and why. Between the days as he tooted his way (and by that I mean he did have a flatulence problem) I learned quite a lot from that funny place.

So how about passing along a few tips? Some might be obvious, but all will help out jewelry lovers young and old, Cher impersonator or not.

1. Never, ever, put on perfume, hairspray or make-up after you put your jewelry on. This applies to real jewels, costume and especially vintage pieces. The oils from perfume or sticky stuff in hairspray very easily gets into jewelry and can immediately damage pearls, rhinestones. You know how some rhinestone jewelry has a yellow look to it? That is due to someone spraying something or getting talc on their jewels. Keep everything looking good, and get yourself ready, spray and coif and make your face, then wash your hands and dry them and put on the jewels last. Your jewelry will thank you!

2. DO NOT WASH rhinestone jewelry. Water can destroy the shiny backing of a rhinestone, so even if you think you are treating your jewels well, you are actually setting yourself up for a rhinestone without any shimmer. And who likes that? I suggest just using some baking powder on a q-tip and gently rubbing each stone. You will see some dirt and debris come off, but the shine should stay.

3. Do NOT wash a vintage faux pearl necklace that is strung on STRING. You are setting yourself up to rot the string which is probably old and fragile anyway. Make sure you keep the pearls necklace dry. If you are DIEING to clean the pearl beads, you should take them off the string and you can clean them using the directions I listed in a previous post.

4. Want to know how to keep those fabulous clip earrings on your ear? Take a tip from a drag queen, or if you prefer you can say a Ballroom Dancer told you. You can take some duct tape, cut it into a small size and put it on the inside back side of the earring (between where the ear and the earring meet). This little bit of super stick will help those glorious vintage clips stay on the ears and off the floor.

5. I have been collecting bakelite

ever since I was a little girl. I just love it, so colorful, chunky, fun and the best part you know that it will never be made again. Unfortunately, there are a lot of sellers out there who will tell you that something is bakelite when it is another, less expensive type of plastic. So how can you tell what is what? For me, ever since I was a kid, it has been my nose. I LOVE the smell of bakelite! When you rub a piece of bakelite with two fingers, the plastic will warm up and then release a smell of... well, I couldn't describe it so I looked up how others describe the scent: formaldehyde. Once you learn the smell you will never forget it. There are so many other types of tests, but I would advise against using a hot pin (you will cause damage and lower the worth of the piece), but many strongly believe in the scrubbing bubbles or hot water test.

6. Most gals like a something that sparkles, and you may be tempted to snatch up every little bauble at your local flea market. Although I do believe that anything that strikes your fancy IS worth having if it adds a little pep to your step, if you ever wonder what kind of vintage is really worth collecting, take a gander at these names of vintage costume jewelry designers, and keep your eyes out for them while you collect! Miriam Haskell with her pearl and embellishments, Vintage Trifari with elegant shapes, golden hues and classic style, Coro is a bit easier to find and it was a quality (though not top notch) designer, but find a "duette" pin and you will be in heaven! Oh, there are so many more, but one of my favorites has to be Weiss. Huge sparkles that still look so elegant today, beautiful shapes and gorgeous designs.

7. If you are careful, you should use this little tip for polishing up sterling silver. Toothpaste! Use a paste-type not a gel, just a dab and I prefer to use my fingers to rub in the paste and rinse it off. I do not suggest using toothpaste for cleaning sterling silver with rhinestones or faux pearls, but simply silver jewelry. You will be shocked to see the tarnish come right off on your fingertips! Glorious!

Among the many things I learned and listened to over my time in the shop, I will never forget the owner's skill at storytelling. He loved his customers, and they loved chatting with him too. More than anything I remember seeing the women who would often stop by and oogle at the new items. Some came just to chat, and others always left with a new treasure with a great story attached. I saw how the owner's love of vintage carried through to the customers--and in that way the history of the piece lived on.

Today I love the hunt for vintage treasures. Although I am trying bit by bit to cut down on baubles, I cherish the story of each part of my collection. Caring for vintage jewels means caring for the history of fashion, yes, but a part of our collective history too. Love your jewels and they will love you back for a long time and you will have even more stories to tell.

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